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Sahawatthanakit (1988) Engineering Team9 min read

Heat-Resistant Coatings up to 600°C — Silicone vs Organic for Stacks, Exhausts, Furnaces, and CUI in Thai Industry

Guide to selecting heat-resistant coatings: silicone-aluminium up to 600°C, the 200/400/600°C temperature bands, heat curing, the CUI (corrosion under insulation) trap and inert multipolymer matrix coatings per ISO 12944-9 / CINI, and matching the system to stacks, exhaust pipe, and furnaces in Thailand.

paintheat-resistantsilicone-coatingcuihigh-temperaturestackthailand
Heat-resistant coating on stacks and exhaust pipe in industrial work

Photo by Unsplash

สรุป (TL;DR)

Guide to selecting heat-resistant coatings: silicone-aluminium up to 600°C, the 200/400/600°C temperature bands, heat curing, the CUI (corrosion under insulation) trap and inert multipolymer matrix coatings per ISO 12944-9 / CINI, and matching the system to stacks, exhaust pipe, and furnaces in Thailand.

Equipment that runs hot — stacks, exhaust pipe, furnaces, steam lines, process vessels — destroys ordinary anti-corrosion paint quickly: the resin burns, peels, yellows, and cracks, and the steel then rusts. Ordinary coatings are designed for room temperature, not surfaces at 300-600°C.

Hot service requires heat-resistant coatings, with resin and thickness matched to the actual surface temperature band — and you must watch out for the most dangerous trap of all: CUI, the invisible corrosion under insulation. This article summarizes how to choose the right system.


1. Choose the Resin by Temperature Band

The key is the maximum surface temperature actually reached (not the surrounding air temperature):

Surface temp band Suitable system Notes
up to ~200°C silicone-acrylic / modified epoxy wide range of choices
~200-400°C silicone (heat-resistant) heat cure starts to matter
~400-600°C silicone-aluminium standard for stacks/exhaust
600-1000°C ceramic/inorganic, thermal spray (aluminizing) beyond ordinary paint

Wrong band = the coating burns/peels within weeks. Spec from the equipment's maximum operating + cyclic temperature.


2. Heat Curing

Many heat-resistant silicone coatings must first reach ~200-260°C to fully cross-link:

flowchart TD
  A[Prep Sa 2.5-3
ISO 8501-1] --> B[Apply silicone-Al
thin DFT 25-50 micron/coat] B --> C[Film still green
not truly hardened] C --> D[Equipment first runs
surface reaches ~200-260°C] D --> E[Silicone cross-links
film truly hardens] C -.caution.-> F[Before cure: no
water/chemicals/impact]
  • Before curing the film is still soft and easily scraped — watch during transport/installation
  • In real service the film cures itself once the equipment runs — but plan protection during the wait
  • DFT must be thin (usually 25-50 micron/coat) — a film too thick cracks during heat-cool cycling

3. The Most Dangerous Trap — CUI

CUI (Corrosion Under Insulation) is rust beneath thermal insulation, occurring when water penetrates the insulation of pipe/vessels in the risk temperature band:

  • Risk band ~ -4°C to 175°C — water sits against warm steel, accelerating rust
  • Invisible from outside — you must remove insulation to find it → usually discovered only after a leak/rupture
  • Prevent with a dedicated CUI coating (e.g. inert multipolymer matrix) per NACE SP0198 / CINI
Ordinary HR coating (silicone-Al) CUI coating
Designed for high steady temperature wide/cyclic temperature + wet under insulation
Wet-dry cycling limited good
Use on bare stacks/exhaust insulated pipe/vessels

Don't use ordinary heat-resistant paint under insulation — insulated pipe in the CUI temperature band must specify a dedicated CUI system.


4. Surface Prep + DFT — Why It's Strict

Heat-resistant coatings adhere harder than normal paint because of constant thermal expansion-contraction:

  • Specify blast Sa 2.5 to Sa 3 (near-white to white metal) per ISO 8501-1 — see our surface preparation Sa 2.5 guide
  • Profile to the maker's spec (heat-resistant coatings are often profile-sensitive)
  • Keep DFT thin — too thick = cracking on thermal cycling
  • Don't use ordinary primer under heat-resistant paint (it will burn) — use only a compatible heat-resistant primer

5. Heat-Resistant Coating Spec Checklist

  1. Specify max operating + cyclic surface temperature — match the resin band (200/400/600°C)
  2. Separate insulated vs bare work — insulated → CUI system, bare → silicone-Al
  3. Surface prep Sa 2.5-3 + profile to the maker's spec
  4. Keep DFT thin to spec — do not over-apply
  5. Plan the heat cure + protect the film before curing (water/chemicals/impact)
  6. Primer must be heat-resistant and compatible — never use ordinary primer
  7. Record the ITP — temperature/DFT/profile for hand-over

We supply and coordinate heat-resistant coating systems for stacks, exhaust pipe, and furnaces, and CUI systems for insulated pipe/vessels — selecting resin by the actual temperature band, specifying surface prep and DFT so the film survives thermal cycling, with an ITP for hand-over.

Talk to our engineering team to match a heat-resistant system to your temperature and service conditions — call 02-096-2118 or LINE OA @sahawatt1988.


Summary

  • Choose resin by actual surface temperature: ~200°C (silicone-acrylic) · 400-600°C (silicone-aluminium) · >600°C (ceramic/thermal spray)
  • Silicone coatings need a first heat cure ~200-260°C — before curing the film is soft, handle with care
  • CUI = invisible rust under insulation (-4 to 175°C band) — insulated pipe needs a dedicated CUI system, not ordinary heat-resistant paint
  • Surface prep Sa 2.5-3 + thin DFT because thermal cycling cracks thick films
  • Reference standards: ASTM D2485, NACE SP0198, CINI, ISO 12944-9

Heat-resistant coating is not "fireproof paint" — choose by actual surface temperature and separate insulated work correctly, or it fails both ways.

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Frequently Asked Questions

1

What resin do 600°C heat-resistant coatings use?

+
Most are silicone resin blended with aluminium flake (silicone-aluminium), withstanding up to around 600°C. At lower temperatures (up to ~200-300°C) silicone-acrylic or modified epoxy may be used. Above 600°C, into the 750-1000°C range, you need ceramic/inorganic systems or thermal spray (e.g. aluminizing) instead of ordinary paint. Choose the resin by the maximum surface temperature actually reached, not room temperature.
2

Why must heat-resistant silicone coatings be heat-cured?

+
Many silicone resins must first reach heat (heat cure) of roughly 200-260°C to fully cross-link and truly harden the film. If applied and never taken to that temperature, the film stays soft and is easily scraped off. In practice the film cures itself when the equipment first runs — but before curing you must protect it from water/chemicals/impact.
3

What is CUI (corrosion under insulation) and why is it dangerous?

+
CUI is corrosion beneath thermal insulation. It occurs when water penetrates under the insulation of pipe/vessels operating in the risk band (about -4°C to 175°C) and sits against the warm steel — rust spreads invisibly from outside until a leak or rupture. It is dangerous precisely because you can't see it without removing insulation. Prevent it with dedicated CUI coatings (e.g. inert multipolymer matrix) applied under the insulation per NACE SP0198 / CINI.
4

How do heat-resistant coatings differ from CUI coatings?

+
Ordinary heat-resistant coatings (silicone-Al) are designed for high steady temperatures, but many do not survive the wet-dry cycling under insulation. CUI coatings are designed for both a wide (cyclic) temperature range and the moisture trapped under insulation — often an inert multipolymer matrix that tolerates alternating heat and wet. Insulated pipe must specify a CUI coating, not an ordinary heat-resistant one.
5

What surface preparation do heat-resistant coatings need?

+
Heat-resistant silicone coatings need especially good adhesion because of thermal expansion-contraction — usually specifying blast Sa 2.5 to Sa 3 (near-white to white metal) per ISO 8501-1, with the blast profile the maker specifies. The DFT of heat-resistant coatings is usually 'thin' (e.g. 25-50 micron per coat) because a film that's too thick will crack when hot — control DFT and do not over-apply.

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